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Maria Mocerino

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Christmas in Naples is a Sport

February 21, 2025

Rosa called it “Christmas in Naples is a Sport” holding a killer hand of cards between burgundy nails on the 25th of dicembre also known as MEAT. She was gambling at the time, her lips the stance. The dinner table became a musical casino in my absence, I see. Standing at the bottom of the steps, I didn’t even make it through the meal. And hardly anyone does.

*

Earlier, as the car ascended into the cliffs of Sorrento at a sharp left, I asked Carmine, in pain, if he was even hungry. Giggino blasted noise at Emilio, his youngest born. His owl eyes shifted. “This is not the point.” Giggino started interrupting our conversation. Carmine did not lose his cool, he did not break, he never does. I wasn’t going to make it, Carmine, I wasn’t going to make it. “MARIA?” “Survival is not the point,” he wagged his finger, instructionally. “MARIA?” “You cannot survive Christmas.” “MA SCUSA…”

“This is not the point.”

Funiculi funicula! on the stereo.

I saw not one but two lasagnas descend from the heavens up above—bianca e rosa or white and red — with bechamel, even, that move blew me away, with fresh mozzarella and fior di latte, nutmeg, and then, of course, tomatoes cheese and meat. We were at “Il Secondo Round,” Carmine told me, as if we were at a boxing match, also known as MEAT. The lasagne took up the whole plate, even at a slight incline — right to the edge. Blew me away. I had eaten 20 courses of FISH the night before at “Il Primo Round,” Carmine said, so I didn’t know that we would be feasting today as well—at noon. I didn’t know, at the outset, that Christmas in Naples was a sport, a real sport, even impressively. There was no way I was going to be able to do this, and we were nowhere near the end of the meal. I had already eaten several, still on the pasta course.

You see, the tricky thing about Christmas in Naples is that the appetizers fool you into thinking that this is all there is, except that’s not true, there’s always more, we’re always giving more. That’s the sports mindset. We get what the goal is: abundance. The end, that’s just a chance to reach immortality. As Vico says, “marathon was a man.”

I could feel the darkness descending, getting up from the table, I lost my ability to construct sentences, operate, by the end of the first act. People were clapping, bravo was firing like canons…along with questions, comments, and reservations. “OLE OLE OLE OLE! I saw DIEGO MARADONA!”

I had eaten for at least three weeks straight, fearfully, but I lost my nerve in a bustling kitchen brimming over with talented boisterous girls buzzing around Assunta in lipstick and chunky jewelry, chic in navy. I didn’t want them to think that I didn’t like it, but I wasn’t going to be able…

Long behold, if not “hark,” Giggino was sitting right in front of me, my main antagonist, my personal coach through the season, my comedic foil, the father who dared to confront this absurd story I came back with after a long disappearance. “You don’t like it?” He asked, right on cue. The chandelier of glass tulips was swirling. The darkness was coming. “What’d she say?” Please, please, do not attract any attention to me. He did.

When the roasted meats hit the table, one stuffed with prosciutto, the darkness descended, I had fever, it was done. I had no more space, literally, within me to think, I shot up upon sight — left — didn’t even say goodbye. Up the tight squat staircase reminiscent of the Bolero print on the wall along with family portraits, I barely reached Rosa’s room upstairs. I fell flat on her bed, cheek squished against the sheets, forehead damp. Passed out.

There’s a print in Assunta’s staircase, before I forget, the cutest person, of a sensually plump woman smoking a long thin pipe, very fine, high art.

My mother gave me to a total stranger when I was four, except, that’s not really the topic sentence of my life: my mother wrapped up a stranger in a protective scheme against my father who she accused of being a child rapist when I was four. That sentence alone: a meaty, hefty football player to digest, an animal. Her name was Joy.

I woke up in the dark to a family singing and laughing. I was in pain, truly, I was about three weeks telling them this epic of what happened to me from that point onward at Christmas which I had not anticipated. Emma made me laugh through the hazy heaviness. I needed effervescent aspirin now.

I tried to come early, “il PRIMO DICEMBRE,” I fired at Giggino on the phone back in Paris a few months prior. My story didn’t go with Christmas, so I decided to go early. I knew the questions were coming. “The first December,” I said. “I COME THE FIRST DECEMBER.” Little did I know, though, that Christmas in Naples is a sport, it typically begins round then. “After summer we are free to put up the decorations,” my friend Marco said, as I even dabbled in a bit of funny journalism, by investigating the sport. It was real, comedic, could save the world. He clarified over octopus and his mother Teresa’s adoring gaze, that “Christmas doesn’t really end… there is no end…”

The 25th of December? Players start going down on this day—, it’s a bloodbath, a double feature, and we must, we must, rise again — we must, despite the obstacles. That’s why we watch sports. But could I? Make it through? Alive? With this story in tow — the story was an obstacle course this Christmas. I could not help that I had it, unable to move.

Yeah, I got really into “the sport” of Christmas here because it was true beyond my wildest dreams, forget my feelings — the Christmas warmth I felt, at the miracle that I lived, over the course of this spectacular season. They rose to their feet, once again, to applaud and cheer beneath my body. Perfect timing. Bravo. Brav. That’s “bravo” in the Neapolitan dialect. We don’t do ending — we elbow that shit right off — it isn’t round or soft here, we’re not those types of Italians, we’re boisterous and HARSH.

Out of bed, head like a wet brick, stomach on emergency closure, my fever had broken a little. I couldn’t see a thing next to her shelves of family photographs, only a multicolored light around the edge of the door. Was I hallucinating? A little. I took a deep breath. I had to pump myself up that evening—Christmas. Putting it in my hips, lightly, I remembered her, though I was tighter back then. I never knew what to do with her.

She was from Brazil, the unsuspecting stranger who got wrapped up in a sex scandal over a four-year-old. Me. We were always dancing. She was. Love, love, love, life was a dance, she danced through life, space, that was her way.

Down the steps, the sounds grew louder and moved in waves of warm colors, my stomach, too. I tip-toed, not like I needed to. The glass reflected bodies in a blurry Caravaggio behind Vico, the family dealer, singing and selling cards. Dessert round had been cleared, the dining table freshened up with fresh clementines from the farm in a field of liquors: Grappa di Chardonnay, Sambucas, Barricata Privata, Pantelleria, Genziana, frosty strawberry, cherry, blueberry, orange, limoncello (for shits), walnut, laurel, and a box that read: in life, in everything that you do, no matter what it is, put your heart in it.

“Maruzzella!” They announced my return as Assunta, the cutest person, put down a plate of fruit as if it were just, another plate, unassumingly. They gave me a new name.

Vico held up cards for auction. His nieces and nephews taunted him by tapping their wallets and getting sneaky and manipulative. Rosa counted cash in a Christmas white sweater with a bullish hot confidence. The baby dragons, Gennaro and Persephone’s three boys, were flying around. The eldest, Frankie, as in Frank Sinatra, slapped a twenty on the table, and baby Marco was crawling underneath the table, his little hand appearing over the edge of the table from time to time trying to snatch bills from his family’s hands. And the beauty of it? Nobody cared. They didn’t even notice. The middle child performing magic tricks. They’re just twisting their wrists, carrying on with their conversations because, well, let me put it this way: Silent Night? Not happening here. This is the time for anthems— these are the big leagues round here: Christmas. We’re singing “My Way” by Frank Sinatra, you see. Remember the goal: immortality. The end is just a chance to reach it.

And I’m not even joking, it’s really like that here. Remember the siren, we trace our origins back to the siren that attempted to lure Odysseus.

I collapsed into a chair next to Rosa with a killer hand of cards between burgundy nails — the star gambler in the family— as if I had washed back up to shore. Nettuno as in Neptune was barking — one with the darkness outside the glass doors reflecting the crowd. A black pup with floppy ears, he insisted to be let in. He broke off the leash again. In a perfect trio, women broke out from the chorus and fired “Neptune” in a cascade, as, by God, the Neapolitans naturally and even instinctually become a Greek chorus when they are in groups: they are truly one and also one body. This is what I mean: they inspired me to desire to become the Bugs Bunny conductor — conducting the symphony of them — a Greek play, classic, yes, but Aristophanes. We do all have our point of view.

Bills tucked under rocks glasses and flutes, their tips caught the light from the tulip chandelier. They appeared to be gambling with tarot cards: a distant cousin of the pack. Vico was in the center of it, the dining now gambling table as the singing dealer, eyes glittering. I was underwater. I needed aspirin. Vico and Giggino shut it down. No, I didn’t. Gennaro appeared, or Hades, as I like to call him, with eyes like green laser beams: you will be judged for making such a request. I was dismissed. I did, though; no, they said outright. “No you don’t.” They ignored me. Could I go to the farmacia tomorrow? The farmacia? It’s the FEAST of la la la la…

Excuse me?

“A FEAST DAY, TOMORROW, SANTO…” Now that, that right there, space warped into some light show — was I hearing things? I was not expecting that! “SANTO WHAT?” My eyes CRAZY. “WHAT?” Giggino looked away like “seriously?”

“It’s a FEAST DAY TOMORROW MARIA — THE FEAST OF SANTO STEFANO…”

“CAFÉ!” Emma cried with her grandmother’s silver tray.

Rosa checked me out with cards in hand, her lips the stance: my face of shock, confusion, fear… Another festa? I looked at the cash in a pile on the table, babies slapping down bills. “It’s true, Meri, it’s really true,” Rosa said in full-featured agreement. “Christmas in Naples is a sport. A real sport…” And that’s when I saw the light break, “yes, Rosa, yes… it is, it’s a sport,” I knew it all along, my eyes desperate to be seen.

“Si Meri,” she said, “a real sport.”

Suddenly full of hope, beaming with recognition, I knew it, I knew it the moment I got here ROSA: this was ancient shit. Remember the siren; these people trace their lineage to this creature. I even needed to train to be able to keep up with them— I mean physical exercise. “You need strength for eating,” a random Neapolitan told me miming pumping weights. “Not exercise,” he flashed me a smile that could steal my money from me on the sly.

I approached the season as if it really were a sport, you see, a sport that never let me down, not from day one, December one, we rise as one, then, she said it here and now on the 25th of dicembre as we gambled as a family — the curtains opened and let God in. “You were right, child, you were right.” I took the news with joy, my mother’s name. Fist in the air. “Sensa sord!” I saluted the family — “Sensa sord!”

“Ahhhh,” they all jumped in. “What’s the expression Meri?!” They taught it to me earlier in the season, and I could not stop repeating it like a good little soldier. “Without money!” I saluted them and demanded that they FINISH it — FINISH the family motto : “nobody sings in church.” “SENSA SORD!” Fist in the air, once MORE. I want MORE. MORE. “WITHOUT MONEY!” “Here here.” “Go Meri!” I got nothing but crowd support and applause. Without MONEY nobody sings for God! Nobody’s doing nothing, yeah! I celebrated the idea, one I genuinely loved, but money was the first hook that caught this unsuspecting mother.

Merry Christmas.

Photo by Alistair MacRobert on Unsplash

Once Upon a Time on Miracle Mile

February 19, 2025

On the 19th floor of a high rise in Bangkok, I’m between nature and highway, and I’m still clearing the voices from my head, the voices of those I absorbed over the past decade. I had world views imposed upon me in my thrities, I unconsciously made a choice…to get to know people, even mystics (lol) with strong worldviews instead of developing my own. Help, in my case, was a shadow. The other was more right than I was. Love and security was something I “owed.” I had a debt to pay, very young.

I came from an otherwordly story.

I had to understand everyone. I could not get angry. You see, you have to care to get angry. I had one of these childhoods that was impossible to communicate, impossible for people to grasp though I saw it everywhere. Injustice even is a real part of the world. Was my story unbelievable? People thought my story was unbelievable? What about slavery? Foster care? The responses I received could even enrage me, but I decided to wrestle with the world inside a person, with the architecture itself— and I had to get real with myself, really real, why are you doing this? My story made no sense, for a long long time. I made no sense, according to the audience too, except no one in my life presented that — you must get clear around this story. You need to go to a psychologist. No sense. You want to make sense. Someone even told me in the end, “make less sense.” So you can be led astray, but whether or not that has to totally be true is another subject. The story itself was a hurdle.

I really got unlucky at the top of my thirties, because, as I began to write about my childhood, believing that there was something of value to contribute within it, a person entered the play of my life and I made a mistake, again, but are there really mistakes? I don’t know. I hope not. All I know is that the current direction of thought I have taken seems to have made me well, so I’m just following that logic, because I look back on the past decade, and I cannot even believe what happened. So enter — a supporting role.

“What are you writing about?” This stranger asked. And, being a touch too open as a person, I told him about my family, since that was what I was writing about, trying out that “one sentence,” and suddenly I was in a relationship that I didn’t actually want to be in. I got something akin to a guru. Help. That shadow. Not direct help, like, uh, maybe I can get you a job. Ever thought about film? It was “reality creation” advice. He thought I could be a big star. But was that my problem? I only just got to LA. Turning the wheel, at 39, I’m looking back, a bit shocked, on the other side. After our first…drink… and, no offense, I don’t care who you are if I don’t know you, a grown man showing interest, I have a right to wonder if he might be interested.

My problems were so basic, and that’s what makes the foundation of ourselves so important because it might have been broken, but I stand on firmer ground because I understand where I came from. I didn’t want to put this story onto anyone, so I didn’t always act like anything can happen to a person, which you’d expect in my case, someone who isn’t open but rather closed off.

I checked out, admittedly, during this first outing with a man considerably older than I was. I have friends of different ages, but my friends would be the ones to lead since I am always uncomfortable about it, that I am very pretty. “He was probably in love with you,” already, even. So hold that. Afterward, he pointed to me across his living room like a guru, “what do you wanna knoowwwwwww” he shook his finger at me. “what do you wanna knoooowwwww….”and now, looking back on it, I’m disturbed. “Life isn’t about what you wanna do, it’s about what you wanna knoooowwww…” pointing at me. Isn’t that rude? Back then, it struck me, purely. Uh, he spoke with such authority.

I was blown away, I really was, when I looked back at step one. Recalling this. “Life is about what you wanna knoowwwwww not what you wanna do…” and can someone hear me? When you go out to dinner with a potential new friend, is this how they talk to you? That set the tone. The next time, just blown away again, I’m talking about my pain, my childhood, with this person I do not know. He’s… presenting himself as an authority on my situation? What would Gabor Maté say, about all that? Wouldn’t he be the one? So I got into a weird relationship because I didn’t understand that I came from an affecting story, and how it might affect someone.

I would not—going down the line — be friends with many people I once knew, it’s not even personal, but from the position of — I just found out that I might have wants and needs? You see? I didn’t know I had wants and needs. So I’m looking at the world very very differently. Do I want to spend time with you? I’m not just open to everything and everyone. I’m a new person practically.

So step one, basics, basics basics. “You do not know this person,” I had to learn that. I was taken from my home, accidently, strangers became familiar. I don’t do this to people, you see, so I never understood how people knew what they knew. And who cares? I had to get over that. Rage, in my case, red energy, was essential. To activate rage. Who gave a crap, looking back, about the angle people took with me, I cut ties with a rapier in my hand. Someone, who, at the end of this magical and terrible decade, the guru called “Carl Jung” after she…got out of the hospital for a day. Looking back on our conversations, I was flabbergasted at this person. “Carl Jung’s The Red Book,” he said, let’s just put a pin on that, mini-psychologist, okay? That’s who I was coming out of these years on Miracle Mile, at nine, so I wondered about this person as I was quite obsessed with the subject when I was young, and I met another obsessive. I found heartache in someone who might inspire a psychological thriller…role playing my father? I woke up to this decade, like, what the hell is even going on? Why is this man role playing my father?

I had to sort out of my head after that relationship.

When you work out a family problem as severe as mine was, and I had to rely mostly on myself to simply stand firm upon the idea, that my family problems were severe; the plethora of responses I could get around me and my childhood was such a crazy range. And now, freedom: my new set of friends, as my new friend even said, last night, at the Four Seasons bar, his track just broke the top 15 charts, so he was verklempt, so sweet: German.

“Friendship takes time.” I like that. That’s how I am. I could get sucked into a deep dive right away, which is cool too, but again, everything changes once you have a sense of yourself. He doesn’t know. He doesn’t need to. We’re all sort of innocent, in that, he wondered if I spoke to my mother, and I said no, simply. And he asked again, later, not even aware of it, and “no,” simply. We’re not going down this road. Sipping cocktails at the Four Seasons. “Child molester, sure,” sip.

My mother, Dr. J, even her nickname is amazing. My mother was a cartoon villain,. She gave me away… oh, wait. I had to reframe my understanding of my life. I used to say that my mother gave me away to another family when I was four, “blah,” I seemed to “appear” as if I came with a story, so it was obvious. But then, to others, I was a heiress (?), potentially “the girl with a plane,” destined to marry a Duke? I got the impression later, sometimes, I was more like a fairytale character, an unreal toy. Not that fun, not for me.

Dr. J wrapped up a stranger in a protection scheme when I was four; she said that my father was a child molester, on the light end, a child rapist on the…dark end: an abuser. I’m going to let that one sink in.

I have no clue how this reads, but this story put me through the ringer, and all I had to hear was: stop talking about it. I didn’t share it with everyone, but when asked, it was — I think classic trauma — where you can’t quite help talk about it, even if you don’t want to. I even felt obliged, and it tended to interest the person I was talking to, so I didn’t always know what to do. And, of course, I could not lie, another problem. My parents were liars. I could not lie. Torturous. I could, obviously, in that I withheld my feelings, too.

For better or for worse, in my thirties, I reopened these years on Miracle Mile. I was between the ages of 4-8, though I don’t know if I was closer to five or closer to nine, as those points are blurry. I didn’t live in my house for four years. In a snap, Angelita snapped her fingers at the Beverly Hills Tennis Club, of all places, I can’t make this shit up, I started living with her, overnight, practically, but now, as an adult, as I interrogated her when I was nine, I would ask — can you break down what “in a snap” means? What I know? It felt like that. Overnight.

In my case, when your mother was showing up to a stranger’s house with her breasts exposed, um, me questioning what happened here is understandable. As well as — not wanting to bring this into my cousin’s house, just please, as I’m working on a book about reuniting with them and telling them…about all this. And the thing is, I know I’m not alone. I know so many people come from terrible families. Families who would get their four-year-old into this situation. Kids do end up in foster care. Sorry to “burst” the bubble.

I got the other side, in Bangkok, hilariously, um, not really, plenty of people live abroad, in Bangkok in particular, but I was a “funny girl.” Not that fun. On stage, sure, in real life, hmmm, not so sure. Next — I have not a lot of money right now. I didn’t have to be in this position. I made a series of choices…including who I hung out with. I think one of the biggest problems I saw was absolutism. This hurt me as someone who fit in, practically no one’s frame of reference.

I couldn’t believe what I did, this past decade, I was blown away. Blown away — out of reality totally. Reality refers to here. Not the future. How we navigate through time might be a fun imaginary voyage, a material even that we shape ourselves, but there is only the present moment. Even if I did see “probable futures” when I was nine. I suppose there’s a theoretical dimension, maybe, an organization outside of the mind, possibility, but what I learned that splendid afternoon that I saw time bend, as I had an experience I couldn’t explain around the time my father was diagnosed with a dementia-related illness, was that: the present moment. I keep doing all the visualization techniques as well, I just cannot speak, yet, from the position of — it works.

My story was so complicated, in that, I lived for four years at this stranger family’s house on Miracle Mile, and one of the reasons why it lasted four years has to do with my father, of course. A figure I couldn’t really look at until I reopened it, and based on how he reacted to this situation, he was either sick, guilty, or both. Sick, most definitely. Meaning, he received a diagnosis, in the end, that he would keep to himself. I found about it ten years later, and it took another fourteen years to even think about, mostly because I started writing about it, as those ten years weren’t that pleasant, to be pleasant about it.

One of the positives in my story, as I lost my sense of purpose, I did, so I’ll rely on one of my values, honesty. It held lessons because my parents were sick. I remember, being taken into my pediatrician’s office for “a talk,” after Miracle Mile because my father started asking for help with me…I wasn’t eating my fruits and vegetables… when I didn’t know what else I was eating with this man. I was maybe nine, ten, like, aren’t you making the food that you make? All these years later. I got MAJOR gender favoritism with my father, major. He drove me nuts. That man was sick, and I saw emotional problems at the center of his illness… whatever it was… Parkinson’s first — then Alzheimer’s. As he didn’t tell anyone. And he had a minor. And of course, my cousin said and he would say that he didn’t, but he did, “how could he tell a child?” Okay, I was living alone with him. So was there always SENSE in the world? No. People skirt out of sense even when they don’t want to believe what they’re hearing. We’re not always sensical. That aside, it might be changing, but emotion in health tends to be overlooked.

I still have to fight, oh wait, no, I don’t have to, it’s called a boundary. With my cousins, a couple of years ago, they acted as though he wasn’t sick, that I hadn’t said that, but of course, they forgot that, “we never said we didn’t believe you,” and guess what? Everyone lies — Dr. J. The liar of all liars. I had to let go of problems with the world itself, if that makes sense…we don’t always have the same version of reality.

I expressed my feelings, around that, finally, and now, just like anyone else, I have to learn how to let go. Forgive. I forgave so easily in the past, and now, I find, in a positive way, even, that it might not be that easy because — regardless of who did what — I put myself through unnecessary pain. So I can’t help that, that I had an experience that I wasn’t aware of. Hello? Wouldn’t that hurt? I didn’t know I could be. I suppose, people say things in the moment, but, for someone like me, it just reminded me of my mother, and it terrified me.

I’m working on a book right now, Christmas in Naples is a Sport, and I love it, I do, I just don’t know what it is, exactly, and whether or not I should strictly tell my family story in this context, but of course, and listen up, listen up if this pertains to you.

Sometimes, I didn’t know. I didn’t know what I was getting into — like with this guru — I didn’t know that what appeared like a positive might not have been. Today, in other words, I wouldn’t even share a tidbit of my story with someone I didn’t know, so that would have taken care of that right there, and if I got pointed at across a room like that, I would just leave. I’m not getting wrapped up with some stranger over my childhood.

I am trying to integrate the lessons I learned, so I won’t repeat this painful pattern for me — of getting “taken in” because of this story. But I’m also older now. It doesn’t matter. I am not open about that story.

A maladaptive pattern in my case was making these weird families externally, where the wise direction to take would have been — stop. You are not alone, this is first. You want to create that from within. Go out and make it. I wasn’t adopted either, but people claimed (psychologists too?) that I had “the adopted stuff,” which would explain my external viewpoint, but the accurate statement is: both my parents were ill. They were sick. Wouldn’t you…search elsewhere? I might have been taken in by families, though I don’t even know how to describe the first — I mean, imagine? Imagine your mother, you, your wife makes “a stop” and comes home with a baby that’s going to bring breasts and child molester to your door. Four years.

And now, I wouldn’t have gotten involved, literally speaking, with the rest of the families. Why? Why was this necessary? So now I’m navigating different turf, so do I “consciously uncouple?” Probably.

I couldn’t exactly pursue, beyond experience, so that’s the seat I’m in now— first — choice. Action. This is about the active man, you have to create your own life. Everyone does. This person wasn’t necessarily wrong, “life isn’t about what you wanna do but know,” but that ended up having a negative effect, as someone who couldn’t pursue — I tried, I did, at the top of my thirties, and then, I had quite an adventure to get here specifically also because I opened my mouth. We probably get in our own way without even realizing it. Simply, I came to understand that what I was doing wasn’t sustainable.

It’s alright, I suppose I got funny tools that made no sense, like my closet that I built in France out of rope, and a dream. Right? “Why are you making a closet out of rope?” I suppose I could have invented a cool closet, absolutely, but, again, funny operation. But his entrance into my life demonstrates that the story itself posed potential problems that I didn’t see. Getting wrapped up, again, which is what happened with my cousins at step one.

I got encouraged to write a book about my family story inside another family. They were the main characters to this guru. Not me. So, once again go external and who cares about you? In the end? This guru utterly confused me. I had a problem of aggrandizing these families, too, like “they saved me,” which makes me a little uncomfortable to admit. But once again, “go external,” I got that piece of advice.

So now, I don’t know what to do. I was talking to an editor who kept on driving this question home: “what is this about for you? Is this about you finding family? Like, you don’t know what family is, and then, you learn?” Not exactly. I’m trying to digest what she said and decide what I want to do before I move on. I think that’s partially true, so I’m trying to work out my thoughts here.

The thing is, they are my cousins, there’s a line, and that line, in my case, was practically always crossed. I did not want to cross it. They weren’t my immediate family, and I doubt that they would have shared such a story with me if it had an insane element, that included accusations of child molestation. But they also saw me as family, so they came after me as a family would. A family would express concern. Except, mine didn’t. So my world began to come to an end. Was it true? About my father? Giggino kept YELLING, needing to KNOW what I ATE at all these friggin’ families —

My story had an effect, but in the end, I was the only one who really went through something that they can’t forget. I wasn’t a TV show. I had limits. I didn’t have a sense of those, so that was important — limits. Not the self is limitless, sure, but in my case, it would have been more useful to — suggest limits. I mean, Giggino, my cousin, he came at me morning, noon, and night over this story — and I got the “fun” in it, meaning, you’re playing parent, I get it’s sincere, but today, I would say: no. He still calls me, it’s just I had to put distance.

They still don’t know the whole story. And recently, for my own peace of mind, I just communicated that I cannot take any disbelief, none, once I succeed in publishing something about these years this year. No disbelief. I understand it’s “hard to believe.” I couldn’t help but laugh sometimes.

I know what it’s like to have a deeply destructive pattern, I guess. I mean, my family life was always hard. I’m just not totally taking on the blame anymore, I mean my brother did tell me he was dying of AIDS, for example, and had committed manslaughter by giving it to people for ten years. And then, it magically disappeared. So that’s a bit of the terrain that’s coming up in my family. I didn’t commit a crime, you see the difference?

I was lucky outside the United States, I did not get into “power plays.” Funny enough. This story, not my story, is brimming with these fascinating pieces of “marketing research” that have no real application. (If I say “my story” throughout, it’s just a habit, I keep avoiding it.)

But to exit the relational space, I had to get in real touch with my boundaries. I had to adjust my relationship with power, as I hated power, I really did, I hated hierarchy, I gladly chose to uplift another’s status, support one’s power, since I felt that so many people were so wounded there, it’s just, wounded can hold a gun, you know. I had to stop. I put up a good fight against the world, but it’s a bit too big, it’s META structural. Meaning, most people are going to check out or not be able to handle “child molester,” okay? First. Let’s start with the word. And it’s unfortunately so common that people’s disbelief could anger me, not visibly, so the audience was a bit of a fight.

I had to make peace with the world, even, as the more and more I read about child abuse, the more I understand that typically the blame falls on the wrong person.

I mean, were my parents fucked up? I guess. Someone said that. I don’t know how to respond to that. The appropriate comment would be: they were sick. That’s a fact, it’s grounding, at least, I can say that. And when I read about other people who had mentally ill parents, I just read one essay, she traveled a lot, and I have been trying to stop living abroad, but of course, I met people along the way, so separation was a necessary step. Forgiveness too.

Again, this is another care problem. Yes, I can be hurt. I didn’t know. I suppose I could put this at the military castello if I keep the book as is, as I stayed there at the end of the Christmas in Naples experience— 17th century. I hear so much about walls, walls going down, the walls that people built, cracking up at myself because I had to get in touch with walls. I get that we create our own reality but so did the Germanic groups — sailing on into town…no? You gotta have a wall, walls are good, so I got in touch with mine. And I had to forgive myself as change is not a linear process for the moments that I slipped into old dynamics, but the more you move forward, the more that these moments became blips, like who cares?

Like many of us, I sometimes moved in directions that did not work. They just do not work. And the more basic I tackle this moment, the better I feel. So, it didn’t work, and it’s time to start something new. One’s cleverness can work against them. I learned that, too, lots of lessons. I’m a bit over that part. I got a couple “teachers” that came into my life this past decade — the line between someone else and me got blurred — that essential boundary is extremely drawn now. I was manipulated, as far as I understand, when I was four, so.

Is everyone always right? No. I had to exercise that logic in the external direction.

But as I am writing a book, and I’m working on personal essays right now, I think I have a better strategy even if that took a decade, practically. I decided that I wanted to write about my crazy family, and I sort of wish that I didn’t, sometimes, but I’m trying to assume it now.

I’m going to blog about it, to free up my mind, and work out what this book is about because I can’t decide if I should loosen the containers, so it isn’t so strictly Christmas-focused, or make it about Christmas in Naples.

So, for example, Giggino and Diordora, my cousins, start taking me in… and so, do I learn about family? Was I supposed to “act” like their daughter now? This was what I wanted to avoid. They called me their “like a daughter,” even though I was telling them this story, which is fine, now, I wouldn’t be triggered, but I didn’t feel that way. What was I supposed to do? At thirty-something? Embrace them as “like a parent?” Or was this just casual, in reality? Talk of walking me down the aisle? Confusing. So, the only thing I know, I had to separate, I did not have parents, so I couldn’t get too attached.

Mid-decade, I went through a truly terrible time — the guru even indirectly believed that I wasn’t FED as a baby, imagine? Seriously? He developed some fixation on it — so I went through a truly terrible time partially because I had no idea even how to respond to that — they FEED you, he kept saying, like why is he saying that? — and was it true about my father? And my “like parents” weren’t there when I went through hell though they came after me — hard — when it wasn’t real. So, “another croc of shit.”

So “another croc of shit.” I don’t know if one would expect that side from someone like me, there it is, I do not choose to act that way, as I understand, also, totally exhausting, as I had to understand everyone and everything. I’ve engaged with so many expectations, Jesus, from others like a swarm of flies… Giggino wondering if I had an alcohol problem… you’d expect… uh huh uh huh uh huh. Sorry to disappoint you. I don’t. They’re still in my life, my cousins, but I had to put some distance between us. Allow, even, for things to work themselves out.

I don’t know if people would expect that facet to appear in my case, but that’s not my style. However, I’ve engaged with SO MANY expectations — Jesus — in relation to my story — that personality is a slightly different exercise for me. I don’t HAVE to choose that. I learned, personally, that it doesn’t have to be true. I can’t delve into — whether or not there are absolute truths about our nature.

Giggino even thought — wouldn’t you be an alcoholic? With a story like that? Okay, in the words of Cher, “it was time for a makeover, but this time, my soul,” because I had to adjust from step one. The way I spoke about this story could be concerning, as I laughed a lot, couldn’t help it, and I had some delusion to work out.

After all, I had to be grateful to this sex scandal I was in… for one. So my laughter could be sardonic, at blank faces, like, “awwww a baby blamed for a terrible situation, awwww, how unusual,” when it isn’t. People are sentenced before they are even born. I don’t even know how to talk about “my feelings” in this case. But Rosa Park’s house was inside a Baroque palace for the Christmas season. That’s it — just didn’t need to say anymore.

I recently arrived here, really, truly, so my whole perspective shifted to such a degree of depth that I don’t even know if that book applies? It does; I even feel it will do well, I just don’t know how to proceed with it, just yet, so I’m going to blog about it. I gotta get into the food, too, or the festivities themselves.

Thank you for reading!

Bangkok: Ethos restaurant

January 17, 2025

I’m starting up this travel blog again as I got to Bangkok and felt inspired by what I was seeing. It’s a very cool city. I’m staying at a digital nomad enclave that has work space built in. I take a motorcycle about an hour to get to the city center for maybe 8 bucks. It’s a fun ride, zipping through the city.

I’m a light chaser, so if a city has beautiful light, I tend to get excited about golden hour. So the last couple of days, I’ve cruised into Bangkok to capture some shots at the end of the day, because it’s so enchanted. It looks enchanted.

But I’ll write another post about that once I gather my bearings — I’ve just been chasing light and marveling at how magical everything looks.

It’s all about this vegetarian restaurant: Ethos.

My friend and I happened to pass by it and I thought, that’s cute, with the intimate “sit on the floor” option at real tables. Perfect.

I’ll go back and update with images. They’re open for breakfast with a page of pancake options.

I just hate being that person taking photos of everything, sometimes.

But these are the coconut banana shakes we got— delicious.

I would tell someone to have an intimate dinner with a friend here which is what I did.

With Ashton. My friend. She happened to be traveling through Bangkok, a magical person. She’s sort of a good luck charm.

And behold, I had turned in an excerpt of another idea for a memoir as I’ve been working on a couple of ways to package my crazy childhood, so I tried something new for this contest.

However, approaching Asher in the most resplendent light, I wasn’t too happy about it, because I sent in the wrong draft. And a window opened for me to edit it, simply, so I had a chance to slip in the right version. So good luck charm. That’s what I mean about her.

People used to say I was psychic, which I’m not subscribing to anymore. She is. She’s got a true magical vibe. Things happen. That’s the point. There’s something inexplicably beneficial about her. Pixie dust, something.

Whatever suggestion she gives ends up producing immediate results. I respect her as someone who probably could practice psychology, type deal.

Over red curry and coconut soup noodles and crispy spring rolls— all of which was delicious—and our banana coconuts shakes (so it’s just girls getting excited) we talked about cultivating enthusiasm.

Trying to do one thing a day or approaching my tasks with that kind of charge as it tends to lead one in positive and fruitful directions.

I woke up, so grateful for the chance to resubmit, thanks Asher, and I realized how excited Bangkok made me. A place I was inspired to explore.

She gets downloads and things, so she told me that she got a vision of me in bed. I was trying to climb some epic wall when it was covered in archways that I could just walk through.

That’s my task right now. Generating enthusiasm. And thinking about sharing my favorite places as I go.

Maria

Hello from Vomerò

June 2, 2023

Naples is a beast, a beauty, a theatrical mystery with neighborhoods full of drama, history, and mystery. On the hill above Chaia overlooking the picturesque Posillipo is the affluent Vomerò where I stayed in an ancient church cave that a young fisherman converted into an Airbnb. Traveling inspires our inner voyager, so first, to get there, I walked down the famous Via Toledo where French writer Stendhal wrote the famous words: “to me, this is the most beautiful city in the world.” Behind palm trees, the facade of the funicular rose tall and pink, and who doesn’t want to take a cable car built in the early twentieth century? If “funiculì funiculà is coming into your head; a journalist wrote that classic Italian song when the first funicular railway opened on Mount Vesuvius in 1880.

The architecture is worth the trip to Naples, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities on Earth, but Vomerò, in particular, offers a stunning display of Neapolitan Liberty which the last station stop features in pink glass. Out of the funicular station, I hung a left and curved along an architectural heaven over rolling hills—Liberty in all its facets and shades—with spectacular views. Tip one if you’re staying in Vomerò: just walk around. Take Via Luigia Sanfelice and Via Fillippo Palizzi. You’ll see a flourishing graffiti: “maybe we’re crazy,” to turn left and see a Liberty mansion in orange gold across the street from a grey castello. Continuing on Sanfelice, however, I had to get to my Airbnb first. I passed the Villa Santarella where Baroque composer Domenico Scarlatti lived and worked. The castle grey and pink—a classic Neapolitan color combination—was constructed in 1909 in the Liberty and also Renaissance revival style, somehow, but Naples can be patchwork that gives the city its flavor. Right beside it, I found a villa behind a gate that could have come out of a novel.

A young strapping fisherman was waiting for me at the end of the block next to a sweet graffiti of the word “bird” on the side of a light pink building. Down a set of steps, we reached another skinny and steep set as if we had arrived at some tiny hilltop town and made our way down to his cave. Over the stone wall across the sea was the island of Capri, a tiled portrait in blue and yellow marked the spot in front of his front door with four windows.

The arched raised loft was his fisherman spot with a dark blue SMEG fridge and nautical decor. Though he had an ashtray from Grand Hotel Vesuvio—the most famous if not expensive lodgings in Naples—his place was simple and well-done, but I liked that little touch. He came from a family of fishermen and bought this little gem a couple of years ago and treated me like royalty but he was laidback—he even offered me a private driver…his friend.

I passed the funicular station and headed up some steps next to an escalator with fashionable Neapolitans in leather and hats hanging out between handsome buildings and graffiti. At the corner of a grey apartment building with wooden shutters, the terrace of fonoteca was packed; a stylish bar that sells craft cocktails and records! I got a Negroni, a classic, and perused some jackets with a cool, fun crowd. A friend of the fisherman had a citrusy drink in a tall glass with fresh mint in it. As a solo traveler, I never feel alone in Naples, because the city lives outside and Neapolitans are warm, boisterous, and prone to strike up a conversation.

Up the street, I found Cantina La Barbera, a secluded restaurant tucked down an alleyway with an enclosed outdoor terrace, woodsy. A large table conversed with voices that cocooned me in a warm embrace. The owner welcomed me as if I were a special guest if not home. He took his seat at a table with the restaurant musician was there who plays Thursdays. And Naples is a music capital, so I’dgo back to check out a local musician. I had a fagioli and meatball soup with rosemary followed by a zucca risotto thick and creamy with tartufo and fungi. Excited to explore the interior, the staff led me through the dining rooms with bright colors on the walls, empty at this time of day. They have a pizzeria downstairs in a tavern with archways, and Naples unfolds like a story; always a surprise or a delight to discover. “Come back,” they said. “Oh, most definitely,” I said. I admired the restaurant’s hot red emblem in the window of the facade on my way out.

The street with bustling bars curved toward an apartment building with a yellow facade dramatic in direct sunlight while the street remained in shadow at the end of the day. Naples is a city of contrasts. Every traveler has their style; I love finding a neighborhood that I can explore that also offers me sites to see and good drinks and eats!

Here are a few of spots to check out in Vomerò—to start

Castel Sant’Elmo

Everyone goes to Egg Castle on the lungomare, the seafront promenade, but I send travelers to this 14th-century fortress situated on the highest point in the city for sprawling views of the city, sea, and Vesuvius. (He’s always there.) A small novecento museum gives you a taste of modern Neapolitan art from 1910 to 1980 in the futurist and neorealism styles. There’s a Scaturchio at the Castel as well, a pastry shop famous for making sfogliatelle for over two hundred years. It’s a small seashell of a thousand crunches stuffed with ricotta, cinnamon, and candied citrus peel that is purported to be packed with potassium and other nutrients. You have to get this delectable treat if you’re in Naples—it’s a must. Most people crowd the location in centro storico and it doesn’t offer these breathtaking views in clear chairs. If you’re feeling indulgent, the cafe crema is dessert in a plastic goblet; a cold, thick, creamy shake for hot days that you can take to go.

Certosa di San Martino

A grand monasterial complex stands right beside Castel Sant’ Elmo as a premier example of Baroque architecture. Erected in 1325, the grounds are palatial with a hundred rooms, two churches, a majestic courtyard, four chapels, three cloisters, gothic dungeons, and hanging gardens. Make sure to allot half a day, at least. The royal chapel of the Treasure of San Gennaro is considered to be one of the finest artistic achievements of the city with a dome covered in paintings. And why not? You went from twentieth-century art at Castel Sant’Elmo to seventeenth-century Neapolitan painting.

Villa Floridiana

Take a coffee or a Spritz to go—porta via—and stroll through a park that was once the grounds of a royal villa that is now a ceramics museum. Under oaks, pines, palms, boxwoods, and through camelia roses and English meadows, the grounds are romantic with artificial ruins, statutes, enclosures, caves, and a small lake with caretta turtles. The neoclassical decorative arts museum houses gorgeous ceramics from the twelfth to ninetieth centuries that even include styles such as Chinese Ming, Qing, and Japanese Edo.

Vanvitelli Metro Stop

The Vomerò metro stop is on the best line in the city—the yellow number one—because it became a public art project. Every stop is a work of art filled with colors, mosaics, installations, and photographs. Among the hundreds of artists that are featured in this spectacular underground theatrical event are William Kentridge, Robert Wilson (Toledo), and Sol LeWitt. The city spent five billion dollars to introduce the city to contemporary art. I tend to take a trip through the subway early in the morning to avoid people entirely. At the Vanvitelli stop, black and white photographs of the architecture cover the walls with escalators ascending and descending through futuristic metal cages with a hot blue swirling lighting fixture in the ceiling.

Naples inspires stories though it’s packed already with myth, folklore, devil sightings (ha—it’s true!), and unbelievable true tales, so it sparks one’s creativity no matter if you lean toward the dark or light. A telephone rang in the space from the television screens on the platform below; a psychological play took off in my head, even a breakout absurd dance number of an almost 50s diner feel. I cannot recommend doing Line One enough, and the metro takes you straight to Garibaldi, too, so it’s a direct line to the train station.

Vomerò makes public transportation fun because driving in Naples is next to impossible. In the words of my cousin Carmine, “It is to be avoided at all costs.” I wouldn’t recommend it. Walking in Naples, in my opinion, is a feast for the eyes, especially from Vomerò; there are pedestrian pathways winding down to Chaia, another chic area to check out. Through archways, you’ll feel like you’re on a secret passageway in some tiny hillside town, once again, and arrive at buildings that will stop you in your tracks in the Liberty style behind palm trees. In the morning and afternoon, the play between the light and the city is a true marvel. Though it’s a healthy walk, you can make your way to Via Toledo and Place Plebiscito and take the funicular back. Avoid the path at night on the return. It’s uphill and not well-lit and Naples is enchanted; that includes the light and dark, so keep that in mind, though I did it and it was fine. Around my fisherman’s cave on Via Petraio, I explored some of these stone alleyways with light splitting through archways.

Naples is an adventure, and every neighborhood has a special character. Vomerò is an unforgettable gem, the perfect place to pick to discover Naples for a short trip or long stay also for its proximity to Posillipo; my favorite neighborhood. Prepare to wander through an architectural delight and fall in love—you’ll see the word over and over again across walls: amore. It’s public knowledge; it’s all about love, and as it was written on a box of panettone: whatever you do in life, put your heart into it.

I love you more than Maradona,

Maria

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